With the weather forecast calling for dry days ahead, we had some time to stay at Siskiwit Bay and explore. We had built in a rain day to our schedule which it looked like we would not need so we decided a day to recover from the previous hikes would be nice. This is one of the campgrounds on Isle Royale where both hikers and boaters are able to share it. Typically those entering the bay by boat sleep in the boat but disembark for meals and to just walk around after being confined to their boat for an extended period of time. We were told it’s often full of boats as this is a nice overnight shelter from the higher waves and storms that can produce treacherous waves on Lake Superior. There were only a couple of boats the previous night and no other hikers so it was pretty quiet at this campground. As the other people finished getting ready for the day and departed the docks we were all alone to enjoy this beautiful place.

As the sun continued to climb from the horizon we decided it was probably time to climb out of our warm sleeping bags after a night of listening to moose meander by crunching loudly on sticks as they ate. Often the first thing to be done each day is use the outhouse. After that it’s replenish our water supply. Grabbing the collection bag we headed down to the water for a refill of cold Lake Superior water. Soon after reaching the waters edge I happened to turn around and saw we were not alone. A little red fox and followed us and was now just observing from the trail. Once it was clear we weren’t offering any nourishment, the fox continued exploring the docks for anything the boaters may have left. With no success the fox made its way elsewhere and we returned to our shelter with a full bag of water needing to be filtered.

While the water ran through our gravity fed filter we began searching our food supply for breakfast. As we began to eat our morning meal, the resident squirrel appeared. Each campsite has at least one of these for entertainment and a little company. They’re very good at climbing all over bringing much appreciated entertainment bordering almost on annoying at times as you have to watch you’re stuff. We became a little concerned as the squirrel began to show too much interest in our water filter and pouches and chased it off until we could move it to a little more secure spot. A leak in our pouch would not be a good thing for the rest of the adventure.

With the first meal of the day finished it was on to our next item planned for the day. When we arrived on the Island rangers had said our exit from Siskiwit Bay may be a bit wet as beavers had been altering where the water was running creating new marshy areas and with a lot of rain earlier this season things may be a bit difficult. So we wanted to explore the trail a little without our packs on to find the best route ahead of time. Also this gave us a chance to see some other parts of the shore wrapping around the bay. Walking back towards the hiking trail we were enjoying the beautiful morning and all of the flowers in bloom. Thankfully mosquitoes were not much of an issue at the moment. Continuing on the trail towards Island Mine Campground we came across some wetter trail but managed to find relatively easy ways around it. Feeling confident in our next days trail, we walked on the beach taking in the sights around us.

There were many spring plants in bloom including Irises and roses to enjoy along with the waves from Lake Superior hitting the sandy shoreline. We were beginning to feel pangs of hunger again and decided to meander back towards the shelter for lunch. While cooking a hot meal to enjoy a Snowshoe Hare appeared. Expecting it to continue on, we were surprised when it just stayed near a shrub until most of us went into the shelter to grab plates and utensils to eat with. With only my daughter still out by the table the hare began bouncing closer. She grabbed the camera which was fortunately sitting on the table and snapped a few pictures of our visitor. Continuing to move closer I just stood and watched from the shelter. Now almost sitting on my daughters feet, she was enjoying her new furry friend wondering if she could reach down and pet it. Knowing better she just stayed still and continued taking pictures until the bunny hope off into the woods. It was beautiful with mottled black and brown fur dressed in its summer colors. With our furry visitor gone we returned to lunch.

Once lunch was put away and the dishes washed it was time for a little R & R. With a chance to reflect on the past few days and everything it took for all of us to be in this place at this time I was just really grateful how well it was working out and thankful for the time with my cousin and youngest daughter. She had been hesitant to go backpacking feeling uncertain of her abilities so to be able to share this experience with her was something I will always cherish. With a little rest it was time to accomplish one other thing I wanted to do with this day and that was back track a little of yesterdays trail to photograph the meadows full of flowers. Unfortunately clouds had overtaken the blue sky making the meadow pictures less interesting but that’s something I have little control over.

On the way to the meadows I turned to say something to my cousin who was accompanying me when something unusual caught my eye. Something didn’t look quite right among this grouping of trees but I didn’t know what it was immediately. Studying the trees for a few seconds I realized I saw the light brown of antlers. It was a bull moose standing there. We watched for a short time as he went on his way chomping off leaves as he went and so we continued on our track more comfortable that the moose wasn’t coming toward us. It was in this area that we met the first hikers of the day headed to Siskiwit Bay. We exchanged a few words before they continued on their way after watching the moose briefly. Arriving in the portion of meadows I wanted to photograph I began to try different compositions to capture the beauty sitting before us. What were all of these flowers? There were yellow, orange, pink, white, and purple all blended together to create a place that could only appear in a dream were you’re laying down among all these flowers watching the clouds move across a deep blue sky. All we were missing was the deep blue sky. We decided to head back towards camp for the night to make another meal before crashing in preparation for the next days hike. It was at this point we had a confrontation with the moose from earlier. A story for another post!

We made it back to camp, enjoyed another warm meal and decided this day would not be complete without a campfire. There’s one fire pit for the entire camp to share. We gathered some dried wood from the beach and from under trees in the area and created a nice fire. A few boats had entered the bay and docked for the night and were finishing up their evening meal after fishing for the day. Once darkness set in they came over and joined us at the fire as we exchanged stories of Isle Royale. As the night grew they began to offer us freshly cooked pizza and a few beers. Knowing we needed to remain hydrated we declined the beer and continued to drink our water while enjoying pizza at the camp fire. An unexpected treat for us! Through the darkness we could make out the call of loons from across the lake letting us know we were in the Northland. These calls turned into distressed sounds. Must be moose getting too close to the loons. I witnessed this a few morning earlier when a moose swam too close to a loon. All of a sudden there was a different sound it was similar to the loon call but ended differently. Discussing this difference with our new camp fire friends we realized the last call we heard was a young wolf. Probably one of the new wolves moved to the island that winter. One call was all we heard and then everything was quiet again. Eventually we said goodnight and headed for our sleeping bags knowing the next day could become very long depending on how far we ended up backpacking. About to drift off we could hear something outside our shelter. Yep, a couple of moose crunching on leaves and sticks bidding goodnight to another great day on Isle Royale.

After a short time, making our way through the swampy landscape near our campsite  on this beautiful summer day, we began a steep climb onto the second highest ridge on Isle Royale. Fortunately there were stairs made from stones to assist in this steep climb. At least this climb is near the beginning for us while we have most of our energy. Finally reaching the end of this climb we removed the backpacks, grabbed some water, and caught our breath before venturing on. The trail continues to climb from this point but at a much more gradual ascent. In no time at all, at least that’s how it seemed, we were on top of the ridge looking over Feldtmann Lake. We had reached the other end of the lake which was about two miles of our journey. It was another beautiful view of this part of Isle Royale. This seemed like a nice place to once again remove this weight from our backs and take a short break enjoying this place we’re at. After some time we hefted our packs onto our backs again ready for the trail once again. I looked at my camera and noticed it seemed to be broken and missing some pieces. By some luck I was able to find the missing pieces after searching for several minutes and snap them back onto the camera. Nothing was broken. What a relief! We shoved off once again.

The trail winding back and forth through trees and meadows. It was warming up now and the mosquitoes began moving to find their meals hidden beneath the skin in our arms, legs, and face. It was time to apply insect repellant which helped a lot but did not stop all of the mosquitoes from the sweet taste or our blood.  Marching on through the woods, the trees began to get less and less as we started to climb once again. Going around a corner a fire tower came into view. What a relief! This marks the halfway point of our day’s adventure. This seemed like a nice place to rest for awhile and grab some food and water. After sitting and regaining some of our energy we climbed the many stairs to the top of this tower. Seeing where we had come from on one side and examining the area we were headed put our journey into perspective. Most of our climbing appeared to be done with mostly downhill and flat trails ahead. A bright spot as the soreness in our legs and backs continued to remind us how heavy our packs were. Sitting awhile longer trying to motivate ourselves, we finally heaved the packs up onto our backs and began the descent towards Siskiwit Bay.

This part of the journey continued on through forests with a few swamps mixed in where beavers had damned creeks to create small pools above the trail. Mosquitoes obviously thrive in these as they braved our repellant to steal whatever blood they could. At one of these mucky areas there was a stench of something dead. Nearby were the remains of a beaver which looked like it had been killed by a wolf. We had been told of a few of these signs that wolves were nearby the day before from others traveling over this trail. To see a wolf is a rare sight on the island but does occasionally happen. As the trail once again turned downward into the trees, there was a creek to cross. Fortunately a large tree had fallen across making a path over the moving water without having to get wet. From here we continued down through the mosquito filled forest making our way to dryer soil.

About halfway between the fire tower and our next campsite the trail reached a valley making travel a little easier on flat ground. The only challenge now was the Thimbleberry bushes continually grabbing at us with stiff, sharp branches which hid the occasional rock or tree root from which to trip over. Continuing through these Thimbleberry bushes for several miles they eventually end with a mix of trees and meadows filled with all sorts of plants displaying their colorful flowers. It’s been warm under the blazing summer sun with little to no breeze since leaving the fire tower. As we continue hiking through these meadows, a cool breeze starts to make its way into the trees reached our sweat soaked faces. We have to be close! That cool air must be blowing off of Lake Superior. A short distance later there was the sign with the trademark metal map of the campgrounds nearby. We’ve made it! Dropping my pack I continue on exploring the campground to find which spot we’re going to spend the next couple of nights at. Looking over each tent site and shelter I realize we’re the first ones to camp and currently the only ones here. We chose which shelter we wanted to sleep and set our stuff down. The first priority was to filter water. While doing so we soaked our sore feet in the cold waters of Lake Superior relieving our burning ankles after hiking near 11 miles with a lot of weight strapped to our backs. We could only keep them in the 45 degree water for a few minutes before they turned blue and became numb. It was better than soaking in an ice bath. The rest of the day involved relaxing, setting up camp, and a little exploring before ending this day with an amazing sunset. The best sunset during our time on this beautiful island!

There’s a scratching noise near the corner of our tent that welcomes me back to consciousness after a nice sleep. What is that? I wonder. Listening a bit more before moving I hear it again. It must be some kind of rodent so I reach over to the edge of the tent and knock on it a few times. The sound goes away. Being a little more alert now the nerves start to enter. Today is our longest day on the trail of this entire adventure. The listed mileage is over 10 miles. I’ve never gone that far before with a heavy backpack on. How will we all do? Have we recovered enough from hiking into Feldtmann Lake? Will my cousins ankle hold up? He injured it falling off a roof several years ago. I know it will be painful for him but will it be manageable? How will my daughter do? She’s been nervous about being the weakest link and holding us back ever since deciding to come back to Isle Royale. I’m confident she’ll do well but she doesn’t seem to be enjoying the island as much as the last time she was here. These thoughts continue to cycle through my mind for awhile before being interrupted by splashing out in the lake. A Moose….

I decide to get up and grab the camera. Watching the moose, if that’s actually what’s making the noise, is what motivates me to begin moving but the camera is for capturing what I hope will be a beautiful sunset. Reaching the shoreline I can see a young bull moose a short distance down the shoreline walking around in the water in search of food in the dim light. Sunrise is at least a half an hour away yet. I slowly attach the camera to it’s tripod because it’s too dark for hand holding and getting a sharp photo. Trying not to disturb the moose while I’m doing this which was successful. After a few minutes the moose begins to swim across the lake all the time shifting his ears listening for anything chasing it from behind or on the shore on the other side of Feldtmann Lake. Such a peaceful and beautiful way to start this day in early July. By the time the moose neared the shore, fog had rolled in making it almost disappear into the mist. The sun was nearing the horizon but the fog blowing in off of Lake Superior was now covering much of the sky. So much for my desired amazing sunrise this morning. Just at this time another moose came splashing into the water nearby looking for food. What an experience!

From behind me I could hear rustling in the tent and then the zipper moving. My cousin was now making his way to the beach after hearing the moose. Pointing to where the large animal was we both sat and watched, snapping a few pictures every now and then, as it slowly walked further and further into the water. I headed back to the tent to let my daughter know there was a moose not far away and that it was almost time to start packing anyway. She was outside of the tent in a minute or so and all three of us were watching the moose until it was out of sight. Now time for some nourishment while stuffing all of our belongings into backpacks for a trip through the island. Within the next hour we were packed, refilled our water containers, and grabbed our hiking poles while munching on some protein bars for breakfast. The fog was disappearing which allowed the sun to penetrate the thick forest as we set off on a day of hiking.

Continued in part II……

It’s been too long since the last time backpacking on Isle Royale. A trip was planned a couple of years ago that had to be canceled but finally, this summer we were able to return. It’s a little weird writing that since the last time, in August 2012, I was very certain I never wanted to return and do another backpacking trip. Funny how things change. This time I was so excited to see the island again. To be immersed in it’s wilderness and to hike the route I originally wanted to hike the last time – The Feldtmann Loop. Thankfully we didn’t hike this route last time as it requires some dedication and is more physically challenging. I wouldn’t have enjoyed it. Carrying a very heavy pack and never having backpacked before would have made it an awful experience I think. Hopefully I’m better prepared with a little more knowledge and can enjoy such a physical adventure.

Waking up early after a late night of traveling to Grand Portage, if there was any sleep this past night, the nerves began to set in. Because there’s a time change just to the east of Grand Portage, our phones were reading a different time than the hotel clocks. Which one was right? We have to complete our packing and get to the ferry docks to begin a day of hiking. The trip takes about two hours which gets us to the island mid-morning. Will we be able to make camp at Feldtmann Lake before dark? How will we do hiking 9 miles with backpacks much heavier than I wanted. Mine was over 40 pounds and I was hoping to have it at 30 pounds or less. I remember being miserable with such a heavy pack the last time with a sore back in multiple places, sore feet, and legs and that was only 5 miles. We made it to the docks with plenty of time and even stopped for breakfast to eat on the way. Our packs were finally fully packed and loaded into the boats storage area and it was time to just enjoy this moment. I couldn’t tell if I was more excited or nervous. My youngest daughter was with me and she was somewhat hesitant to come on this trip to begin with. Would she enjoy it with the more extensive hikes and more weight? She was afraid to be the weak link in our hiking group and feared holding us back. I just wanted to have this time with her and for her to have a great and memorable experience. Sharing this time with her was something I had been really looking forward to so now it was time to just take in the moment and be thankful for this tremendous opportunity.

Just before boarding the crew informed us that the water temperature was in the low 40’s Fahrenheit and it would be a cold trip so bring some additional layers to keep warm if we had them. I grabbed my fleece coat for additional warmth but anything else would require unpacking so I decided to endure the couple of hours of gliding through the cold waters. Shortly after departing the docks the ferry tends to stop for a short view of the Witch Tree, also known as the Little Spirit Cedar Tree. It is a gnarled old tree estimated to be over 400 years old growing out of the rocks on the shoreline of Lake Superior near Grand Portage, Minnesota. This is a sacred tree to the local Ojibwa. I’m always amazed to think something can grow, essentially in rocks, and endure the extreme winter weather for such a long period of time. And now it was time to turn and continue our journey towards Isle Royale.

Off on the horizon you can begin to make out the tree line of this National Park. It’s hard to believe it takes so much time to travel this distance but that’s because it’s surprising how far away it really is. The trip covers 22 miles of Lake Superior. It was difficult to remain calm and try to enjoy our journey but I was nervous about the days hike and just wanted to begin. About halfway the cold waters began to make there way through our jackets as we began to shiver. The crew was absolutely correct about the journey being cold. Not that I thought they were wrong to begin with. I wrapped my arms around Kristen hoping to bring some warmth to her. I didn’t want her expending additional energy just trying to stay warm. She would need it later. In a few hours, I knew we would all be hot once again and just kept telling myself that the cold air was only temporary and to continue to enjoy the sights and our time on the boat as much as possible. About half way the Rock of Ages lighthouse became visible and a marker telling us how close to the island we were.

Soon the lighthouse moved from east of the boat to west as we passed into the National Park. The details of trees and stone creating this incredible landscape became closer signaling our arrival back to this beautiful wilderness. The nerves were beginning to give way to excitement and the cold was being chased away by thoughts of wildlife and wildflowers. Would there be wild orchids in bloom on our paths? Would we see another moose this time? How about a fox or even a newly placed wolf? Engines started winding down as we entered Washington Harbor. The shoreline began to have a familiar look. The trees still had their bright, spring green appearance as though the snow only left a few weeks ago. More and more I was certain it was a perfect time to live on Isle Royale for a week. Soon we slowed down to gaze through the clear waters of Lake Superior at the USS American. One of many shipwrecks around this large island. After a few minutes of observing this underwater treasure, we were once again headed for the docks to disembark for our journey. In a short time had our backpacks again and needed to check in with the ranger station informing them of our hiking plans before beginning. Filling our water bottles, lathering on the sunscreen, and taking advantage of flushing toilets seemed like a good idea before donning our packs and leaving this relatively modern spot for the wilderness over the next week. A few quick photos to mark the beginning of our journey and it was finally time to grab the hiking poles. Are we ready?