Category Archives: New Experiences

Entrance Sign to Yosemite a Disappointment

One of the Entrance Signs to Yosemite

The Second Yosemite Entrance Sign

The only entrance we used was the south entrance where there are two different signs announcing the arrival into Yosemite National Park. Unfortunately neither of these signs are indicative of the park you are about to see. This is one of the most visited parks in the United States and I expected the entrance to reflect that. As we passed through the entrance for the first time I thought that these couldn’t possibly the official signs. Every other park we have visited so far had a unique but uniform look fitting of a national park and those parks accommodate fewer visitors each  year.

A More Fitting Entrance Sign to a Large National Park

Yosemite is such a large and incredible park, shouldn’t the entrance reflect that? I’m not expecting anything exceptionally extravagant but something that announces your arrival into such a magnificent park like the above photo shows for the Grand Canyon. There is not even a National Park Service logo on the first entrance sign to Yosemite above. The second sign does include this logo although it is quiet small. In the defense of Yosemite personnel, while looking through photos of other national parks I discovered similar disappointments with the entrance sign. The photo below is of the first entrance sign we encountered at Grand Canyon National Park. Even this one is more significant than either of the signs to Yosemite.

First Entrance Sign to the Grand Canyon

While exploring the visitor center in Yosemite Village we inquired about the entrance signs and were told at least one of the other entrances had a better sign. Unfortunately time constraints and the distance we would have to drive to get pictures of this sign prevented us from seeing it. Experiencing more of the natural features in Yosemite was a higher priority than taking a picture by a better sign. We were also told that there are plans to improve the South Entrance Sign in the future. To see what the other entrance signs looked liked I searched and found this photo below courtesy of ezeiza on flickr. A much nicer sign but still not as significant as might be expected at a park like Yosemite

Yosemite Entrance Sign by ezeiza on flickr

Backpacking Tips Continued….

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-Take a moment to realize how little you actually need to live while you’re hiking and surviving on only the things you can carry on your back. There are so many distractions in life that we begin to believe are necessary filling houses with so much stuff to occupy our time. It’s nice to live in a simple manner if only for a few days. These few days of simple living can also serve as reminder to appreciate the comforts of home.

-One aspect of taking a backpacking trip that no one mentioned to me ahead of time was training for it. Adding a 40 pound backpack to your weight instantly puts a lot of stress on your body especially while walking up and down hills, over rocks and trees, and any other obstacles on the trail. Some methods of training include putting on the pack and running, using a Stairmaster while wearing the pack, or just go hiking on local trails with your pack on. You make think this is not necessary or be a little concerned about what people are thinking as they see you training with a backpack but it will make a huge difference on how much you enjoy your backpacking experience. After completing the first hiking trip I entered a conversation with more experience backpackers on what they do to get ready for the physical endurance required. Two of these included ex Marines that agreed backpacking is tougher than the training in the military regarding carry packs. In the military training may include running with a 40 pound pack for 10 miles but these miles are on flat, smooth surfaces. The trail is very rarely flat and smooth!

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-Take a few moments and just be. What does this mean? Sit or stand still and close your eyes to listen to all the activity that is going on around you. The breeze moving leaves, critters rustling around, birds fluttering, a deer off in the distance. After a few minutes open your eyes to the amazing vista you came to visit. Just listen and feel yourself breathing: your heart pumping, lungs inhaling and exhaling the fresh air, your muscles aching reminding you of the feats your accomplishing. Realize how few people actually get to experience this solitude of the wilderness. People call these the simple pleasures in life. I believe these are reminders of the great and necessary things in life.

I hope these tips help you understand what is involved in a backpacking trip so that you are better prepared and most of all enjoy your first experience.

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To read more about my first experience check out these articles:

An Easy National Parks Trip?

Isle Royale Preparations Update

A Night on Isle Royale…or Three

Some Tips for First Time Backpackers into the Wilderness

Hitting the Trail for the First Time

If you’ve never been on an overnight backpacking trip before but have the urge to see what it’s all about like I did, here’s some tips from my first experience.

-Every backpacker is looking for 3 things from their gear:

1. Quality to last

2. Lightweight for easier carrying

3. Inexpensive

Pick 2 out of 3 because getting all 3 is very unlikely

What?! I Have to Fit All of This Into My Backpack?

-Realize that for your first time out your are going to be carrying a lot of weight for a couple of reasons. First, you will most likely over pack for your trip simply because you have never done this before and are unsure of exactly what you will need and what you can live without. Being caught in a rainstorm without rain gear or running out of food during a hike are not going to make your trip fun. Second, acquiring lightweight gear is something that takes a number of trips to accomplish due to the expense of it so for the first time you will likely have equipment that is reduced cost but heavier to carry. Some options for finding good lightweight gear include borrowing it from someone you know that has it or renting gear from an outfitter.

Duct Tape Fix

-bring a partial roll of duct tape. This stuff comes in a variety of colors and patterns now instead of just the good old grey to make it a little more fun to use. Ultimately you want this as it can be a versatile fix it tool. If something breaks or rips on your tent, clothing, or hiking boots duct tape can get you through your trip. In a pinch you could make a rope out of it by twisting long pieces of tape together or use it as a medical bandage.

Duct-tape-dressing-for-tropical-sores

-when planning your meals, try to plan a couple of meals that don’t require cooking each day especially if that day requires a lot of hiking. This accomplishes a couple of things. First, you save on fuel. Second, and probably more importantly you save water and time. Cooking a meal requires water to cook with and clean with. Cleaning is the more water and time intensive task. Once everyone is finished eating a warm meal the dishes need to be washed with the wash and rinse water needing to be strained away from water or trails in an effort to leave no trace for wildlife and other hikers to find. This requires filtering more water to clean with. All in all cooking a meal requires time and energy that can be spent on the trail. I took the time to cook breakfast, lunch, and dinner for my first backpacking trip. Next time I will plan on more breakfast bars and snacks with a warm meal only once a day for some of those days. In addition, food to be cooked generally adds more weight to your pack.

How Does This Stove Work?

-Plan a practice backpacking trip a few weeks before the real thing. Go to a nice campground that’s not to far from a store or restaurant in case you forgot to pack something preferably with a river or lake so you can test out your water purification methods. Your back yard doesn’t count because it is to easy to go in the house to get stuff. This accomplishes a number of things. It forces you to have all of your equipment you think you’ll need with enough time to make adjustments before going somewhere with nothing available except what your carrying. This gives you practice in real conditions with your equipment to make sure it all works the way you want it to and figure out how to best use it. Also, this is on opportunity to figure out how to pack your backpack and how much it’s going to weigh. The most important thing this does is give you confidence in your ability to successfully prepare for a backpacking trip in the solitude of the wilderness.

Isle Royale part II

Hitting the Trail

We were off to the next destination which was just over four miles away while carrying 40 pounds or more of camping equipment and food. While researching backpacking it was recommended to carry a maximum of 20% of your body weight in your pack. Ours seemed slightly higher than that which appeared to be more common amongst the other hikers on the island. 20% would certainly have been more comfortable and easier on our bodies. The scenery was quite nice and changed along the way however after a couple of miles of walking up and down hills with all this weight the scenery became less important. Finally after five hours of hiking we arrived at our destination and where able to take the packs off for an extended period of time. This did include stopping for lunch and a couple of other snack breaks so it was not constant walking. After some recuperation it was time to set up camp for the night and enjoy our surroundings.

Huginnin Cove

Huginnin Cove was without a question worth the hike. We had Lake Superior on two different sides of us with trees and rock formations everywhere else along with plenty of peace and solitude. The landscape was spectacular even when you’re exhausted from getting there. Listening to the waves of the lake crash against the rocks surrounding the shoreline while taking in the surroundings was an amazing experience. Off in the distance we could see the shores of Canada and at times see the city of Thunder Bay. At this camping area there was no pre-built shelter, running water, or flush toilets so it was more extreme camping. Our evening meal was prepared while watching the sunset across the water. As we finished cleaning up for the evening the stars light up the sky with no moon to interfere. This happened to occur at the same time as the Perseid Meteor Shower was winding down so not only did we get to star gaze but we were treated to shooting stars and numerous satellites crossing the sky. This was the experience I was hoping for!

The Milkyway and a Satellite

Our next morning was beautiful and sunny giving some incentive to get up and enjoy the day. We were much slower in emerging from the tent even with this nice sunny day as there were many sore muscles and joints along with the knowledge that it was another day of hiking with all this extra stuff strapped to our backs. Eventually we made breakfast and cleaned the dishes and packed everything away into our packs in an effort to head back to Washington Creek. There are two ways to get from Hugginnin Cove to Washington Creek. We explored one of those the previous day so decided it was time to take the second trail today. A very good decision as the scenery was much better and the trail slightly easier.

A Beautiful Morning on Lake Superior

For the conclusion of this post click to continue…

Father’s Day With The Sequoias

Giants of Yosemite

I’ve often heard about the sequoias of California (also known as the redwoods). Stories of trees so large that tunnels were made through them large enough for cars to fit. An occasional picture added to the stories showing these magnificent trees and their grand scale. When first starting to plan for a trip to Yosemite National Park I didn’t realize that there were a smattering of these redwoods in the park. Most of these are in Mariposa Grove. Knowing that Sequoia National Park is close by my expectations were that in order to see the redwoods you would have to go here. Young Sequoias With Old

Entering from the south into Yosemite late in the day on Father’s Day, Mariposa Grove was the closest sight to this entrance so it was decided to explore this area with the daylight we had left. Entering the parking area the sequoias are immediately visible and very impressive. I don’t know if a photo can capture the grandeur of these trees with much accuracy which is why seeing these for yourself is the only way to experience these massive redwoods. Looking around the parking lot quickly invites you to take a short hike to see more of these trees with the gem being the California Tunnel Tree less than a mile away.

Fallen Sequoia

After only a few minutes on the trail you come across one of the sequoias that has fallen and gives you an idea of just how large the base of the trees can be. Another observation at this point was how wide this dirt trail was and the amount of dust that had settled on nearby plants indicating just how many people have been using the trail in recent days. Continuing on this trail, another fallen sequoia laying across the trail adds the your education by explaining how many rings a trees has indicating it’s age. Also, this tree has been cut allowing passage between portions of the trunk.

Learning About These Giant Redwoods

This brought about the question of how do they cut through these trees? The trunk is 10 –12 feet in diameter. I have never seen a saw that was this large. I can only imagine that a trunk has to be cut with several passes of a larger chainsaw as I do with a tree that may only be 18 – 20 inches in diameter. It was at this point we learned many of the larger redwoods were 1,800 – 2,000 years old. Imagine, a tree that has lived this long and all of the different conditions it has survived to get to this point. Fires, ice and snow, rocks shifting (earthquakes), heat, cold.  These trees could tell us more about climate change if they could speak.

A Stand of Redwoods

Moving further up the trail there were more giant sequoias to capture your attention and just about the time you start asking “where is the tunnel tree? We’ve been on this trail for awhile now.” it appears through the forest. Now in sight the pace hurries a little to see this tree close up as you forget that you’re even walking out of amazement at seeing a tree so large a tunnel could be created out of it and it still lives. Getting closer to this tree of course you have to have your picture taken standing inside a living tree but in order to believe it is actually real you almost have to touch the tree. The bark is very spongy almost begging to be touched over and over again. You can see were the tree is trying to heal the enormous wound by all the bark that has started to grow on the inside of the tunnel in an attempt to cover exposed wood.

The California Tunnel Tree

Satisfied that the hike was worth every step to see such magnificent trees it was time to return to the vehicles as dictated by the waning daylight. A hike at this time of day can be more peaceful as many of the other explorers had already returned to their vehicles and left for the day leaving the quietness of the forest for those still meandering the trails. It is this peacefulness that I desire allowing the natural surrounding to be seen and heard as you return to where you began. We returned to the vehicles as the sun was setting allowing us to find a spot on the road to stop and witness the last rays of the day. A day filled with memories as we began this Father’s Day in the hustle of Los Angeles eating a great breakfast and ended the day in the peace and quiet of Yosemite as the forest transitioned into night.

Sunset in Yosemite

Dinner at the Ahwahnee

Dinner at Ahwahnee

In place of the luxury tax on the traditional Monopoly Board, the National Parks edition has Dinner at the Ahwahnee which is located in Yosemite Valley inside the Ahwahnee Hotel. This is an upscale restaurant requiring a casual dress attire or more in order to enter and be seated. There were those wishing to dine that did not have the proper dress attire of collard shirts and long pants or a dress, skirt or slacks and blouses for the ladies who were given two choices: either borrow the proper attire from the hotel or dine elsewhere.

The Entrance to The Ahwahnee Hotel with Thurman the Truck Just Off to the Side.

We had made reservations a week earlier as our schedule was tight and we wanted to be sure and fulfill this location on our board as there are no intentions of returning to Yosemite National Park before this board game is complete. As our time neared, as usual we were running a little late so I quickly made my why to the host stand to check in and let them know we were running late but were there for our reservations. The host looked at me with my t-shirt, shorts and hat just about to remind of the dress policy when I cut him off explaining that we would be late because we needed to change before being seated. Turning back towards the rest of my family we proceeded to a changing area. Many of you would call it a restroom but for us it was our changing room for the evening.

The Ahwahnee Hotel and Restuarant During the Day

Returning to the host stand waiting to be seated the host once again asked if we had reservations to which I replied yes, gave him the name and mentioned I was the one who moments before stopped by. Surprised he said he didn’t recognize me and quickly found us a table. I guess that could be considered a good thing. Once seated we were given drinks and bread along with being introduced to our waiter George. George has been at that restaurant for 42 years and is the most senior member of their staff. It seemed fitting that we should be served by the most senior member in our efforts to complete this board.

Inside This Historic Dining Room

Once inside the atmosphere was beautiful. Built with numerous windows to take in the sights of Yosemite while dining and decorated with stone and wood added to the overall experience of this park. It has been obviously updated since originally built to include electric lighting but still gives the feel of dining by candlelight for an authentic experience. A piano was softly being played to add to the ambiance of this historic dining room. During the evening we recognized many of the songs being played as the kids have practiced most of the music during their efforts to learn how to play piano.

Having looked over the menu on-line we knew ahead of time the selections available for dinner along with the hefty prices for those plates. In past experience when a meal is fairly pricey the portions are generous as well. In this case I was somewhat disappointed in the amount of food we received for the cost. Anticipated generous portion sizes we had determined ahead of time that we would share meals allowing us enough room for dessert in the end without any leftovers. Turns out we could have each had our own entrée and still had room for desert.

My Rotisserie Chicken

I indulged in the rotisserie chicken which comes in a seafood sauce. I’m not a fan of most seafood so I was living on the edge to begin with. The chicken was excellent and the sauce was to match except for the scallops and that is strictly due to the texture of scallops which I do not care for. In addition I ordered a spinach salad which was small but delicious. To end our meal we ordered a red velvet cake. This was definitely the best part of the meal! Sorry, no photos of the desert as the batteries died on the camera. We ate it to fast and didn’t think of capturing this with the camera first.

Enjoying Dinner at the Ahwahnee

Finishing desert it was time to locate the Monopoly Board to get another property signed. I made my way back to the vehicle we were using to locate our board along with the pen to be used and hurried back. Night was fleeting and we wanted to get to the top of the mountain for the sunset and take in a clear star filled sky later. Discussing our intention of our travels with people at the host desk they suggested George be the one to sign it (it wasn’t until this moment that we were informed of his tenure at the Ahwahnee). They quickly fetched him and the board was signed. Completing our experience we explored more of the hotel and headed out to witness the end of another day.

The Ahwahnee at Night

Getting the Board Signed

Bridalveil Fall

I sent out a tweet while in Yosemite as follows: “Just got the #yosemite national park location signed on the monopoly board by Dave Crockett.” There have been some inquiries about it so I though I would explain it in further detail.

After exploring Yosemite for a couple of days it was time to fulfill the ritual of getting our Monopoly National Parks edition board signed by a park ranger. It was off to the nearest visitor center which happened to be the Wawona Information Station in search of a ranger. After hurrying to get there before they closed we found out they had closed an hour earlier so we were out of luck because the Yosemite Valley Visitor Center would be closed before we got there as well.

Becoming Junior Rangers

The day before we were in Yosemite Valley at the visitor center learning about Yosemite and taking in a ranger program for our junior rangers. We could have had the board signed then but time was once again running short as we had dinner reservations at the Ahwahnee restaurant to get to so it was tabled until the next day. Unfortunately our adventure in Mariposa Grove took longer than expected eliminating our opportunity to make it back to the valley.

Mariposa Grove

We were leaving the next day with a long drive to L.A. to catch our flight home so there really was no time to go back into the park meaning we needed to get the board signed before leaving on this night. What were the options? There are park rangers roaming the park the big question was where and how to find them? One of the park rangers from the valley the day before had mentioned we could have a ranger and the entrance sign. Recalling this we decided this was the best option.

Arriving at the entrance we stopped and waited for cars to go through before approaching one of the booths housing two rangers. I asked if one of them would sign it. They both looked at each other and finally one of them said “me?” I responded “if you’re willing!” and gave him the pen. While he was signing I noticed is badge which said Dave Crockett. Upon returning to the vehicle and explaining that we just had Davy Crockett sign our board they laughed and thought it was a great ending to the trip in Yosemite.

Getting the Board Signed

For those that would like a little further explanation here you go. First off, Davy Crockett was considered the “King of the Wild Frontier” so an avid outdoorsman and adventurer very similar to how many of the park rangers are viewed. Secondly, we had opportunities to have the board signed by other rangers but those opportunities fell through almost as if it was fate that Dave Crockett was meant to sign the board. We found it a little ironic!

The Last Fireworks at Mt. Rushmore

Mt. Rushmore

It was the best of times …. uh … it was a cool and dreary day at ….. it was the worst of times … Let’s go back to that cool and dreary thing. It was July 3rd and the sun had not awakened yet as we were quickly getting up and packing the car for a day at Mt. Rushmore. We had heard about the Independence Day Fireworks being some of the best in the U.S. as they are broadcast in many different areas of the U.S. and even internationally and were eager to get our spot to enjoy a day of festivities.

Mt. Rushmore Entrance

Daylight was arriving to the Black Hills of South Dakota as we were driving towards this patriotic destination. Friends that had been there in years past for this celebration warned us to get there early or there would be no place to park or sit. Finally we passed the entrance sign to Mt. Rushmore National Memorial and began to wonder where all of the cars were. There were plenty of indications that a huge crowd was expected but no lines. Could we really be early enough to have avoided much of the traffic? Enlightenment quickly arrived as we neared the entrance and saw that the only way to get into the park was from the other direction of which the line of vehicles went as far as we could see. We continued driving down the other side of the mountain passing stopped cars waiting to enter the memorial. Finally the end of the line appeared so all we had to do was turn around and get in line.

It was at this time that traveling with children reminding me of the frustrations that can occur as one of them blurted out “I have to go to the bathroom! Can we stop!?” Great! Every minute we delay getting in line reduces our chances of parking inside the park. Well, waiting as long as we were going to have to it was better to not take a chance so I pulled over by a gas station and let out the children and my wife to take care of this issue while I turned the car around and got in line. As the line started to move I began to grow nervous as our missing passengers hadn’t returned yet. As I continued to creep further and further away from the gas station I kept looking for Karen and the kids with no sign of them. The line was about to move forward around a corner when finally here they came. Success! The children were once again comfortable and we were all together again without giving up too many spaces in line.

Front and Center for the Celebration

It was just after 8 a.m. when we entered Mt. Rushmore National Memorial Park. Relieved that we would be parking inside the grounds it was time to find a parking spot and then move as quickly as possible to find a spot to sit for the day. After several minutes more we had landed in our place to park for the day and there was still plenty of room for more cars. Moving on towards the monument we were again stalled due to security screening. Nothing we could do about this so just wait for our turn. Besides, everyone else needed to do the same thing. As we waited there were plenty of things to look at such as a huge screen monitor to watch all the festivities on. This monitor took up an entire semi-trailer! I had never seen a screen that big. Now I wish I had taken a picture of it. Once through security (which was similar to airport security except you could bring coolers through with larger amounts of liquid) it was on to find our living quarters to enjoy the Independence Day festivities. We were fortunate to get prime seating (using our own camping chairs of course) staring directly at the monument.

The Monument Crying

The entire area was filled with fog keeping the sun from beating down on us. As the morning grew older we could see people setting up the fireworks display we had so eagerly anticipated. After sitting for about on hour rain began to fall. It was at this time we started questioning if we should stay. It appeared as though the rain could continue much of the day and possibly cancel any fireworks display. This was confirmed by periodic weather updates given by park rangers and those watching the radar on their phones. To make matters worse the rain was basically defined to this area of the mountain and just kept building for much of the morning. We decided that there had been plenty of time planning this event that we should stay so off to get rain ponchos and rain coats and wait it out. After being out in the rain for several hours we would take turns going through different buildings to see the displays and find a reprieve from the rain.

Setting up the Fireworks Display

Throughout the day there were many different activities planned including Native American dancing and ceremonies along with military aircraft flying over. Around the middle of the afternoon the rain slowed down and eventually stopped. Some of the aircraft flyovers had been canceled already but there were more scheduled and now that the rain had stopped their were indications that these could take place. The sky had began to clear and there was plenty of sun to dry us out and the hope for fireworks had returned making us extremely happy we decided to stay. As the daylight began to wane, so did the clear sky. Just in time fog had rolled into the mountains making it impossible to even see the monument let alone any fireworks. Our hopes of witnessing this spectacular display were once again dashed.

The B-1B Flyover

After a long day of waiting fireworks time had arrived. Unfortunately there was one problem! It was uncertain if we would be able see them. Time came and an announcement over the loudspeaker began to confirm our disappointment. They decided to test one of the shells to see how it would look. It was difficult to know if it was the firework or lightning as that is what if reminded me of. After this test the audience was asked if they should continue with the rest of the display. A loud resounding YES! was the crowds response. After a few more minutes the pyrotechnics display we were all waiting to see began. It reminding me of a mix of lightning and northern lights set to music. Once this had finished many members of the audience agreed that this was the best fireworks show we never got to see. As it turns out, this may also be the last Independence Day Fireworks display at Mt. Rushmore for some time to come. To read more about that go here ….

This was a day that tested our fortitude and rewarded our persistence with a unique light show created by humans and nature which will not be duplicated for a number of years if ever at Mt. Rushmore.

View From A Far